Cantine del Mare – Deep Red Cellar

Grappa di Passito

It was a dark and stormy night….no, it really was. The power threatened to go out during the day but thankfully did not. I threw a small and fully operational dinner party in the midst of hollowing winds and sheets of rain.

Our drinks for the evening were Italian specific. Not due to planning but coincidentally we started and ended the evening with Falanghina. Appetizers with Vino Spumante, a couple hearty, old vintage Italian reds with dinner (ooey, gooey, lasagna – yum!) and grappa as the culmination. That’s right, I said grappa! Dare I say, it was the rock star of the evening. I’m not usually a lover of distilled spirits but due to the rave reviews of my dinner guests, I took a few swallows to confirm what the others were saying – this stuff was GOOD!

The sentimental part of me loved that the grappa was the star of the evening. We brought it back from Italy about 9 years ago from Cantine del Mare, our favorite small, family-owned winery in Monte di Procida. It came with a tag, that had No. 161 handwritten on the bottom. Unfortunately, I don’t remember any background information but like to think it was a special small batch production for the maker as well.

A little back ground, grappa is a digestivo from Italy (and the part of Switzerland by the Italian border). It is made by using brandy to distill pomace (leftover skin, seeds, stems and pulp from winemaking) and usually comes in around 35-60% abv. It was originally created to prevent waste but now is deemed legit all on it’s own.

Our digestivo was Monté Grappa di Passito Falanghina – passito means the grapes were dried on mats concentrating the sugars and making for an absolutely delectable grappa. Aged in neutral French oak barrels for 8 months, the grappa had a harmonious and elegant structure, soft on the palate. The age was seen through the beautiful, amber color, rich and luxurious. Flavors of butterscotch, almond, sweet tobacco leaves, honey and spice swirled around the palate culminating in an evident 40% abv warm lingering sensation in the throat and chest.

The warm grappa, warm house and warm fellowship somehow made the rain and cold go away for the evening…until we opened the door. We said goodbye to our guests and watched them brave the dark and stormy night hoping the lingering warmth of the grappa somehow made the pelting rain a little less obnoxious.

Arrivederci Italy

I’m writing this with less than a week left in Italy. It is hard to believe. I came here three years ago thinking the time would seem so long but, as I’m staring at the very end of this tunnel, I realize the time has flown. Now, I find myself reminiscing. Sure, there were some bad times but there were a lot more good times – many of which happen to center around food and wine. I think that may have something to do with the fact that I happen to love both.

So take a moment to relish in some of those experiences with me as I recount what will hopefully linger as great memories for years to come and possibly encourage you to plan a trip to Bella Italia yourself:

1. I’ll start with the obvious….I love that Italians make such good wine!

2. I love that the food of Italy is made up of ingredients that are high in quality and low in quantity.

3. I love that Italians are adamant that certain shaped pasta must be eaten with specific sauces.

4. I love that the biggest wineries down to the smallest wineries in this country usually are experienced with your own personal tour guide….followed by a great tasting.

5. I love that in my little town of Monte di Procida there is Cantine del Mare Winery and La Taverna dei Sapori Ristorante. Both of which have wonderful owners who opened up their doors and hearts to me.

6. I love that what we Americans consider “fru-fru” gourmet produce, and pay high dollar for, grows wild alongside the road in abundance here – plants like fennel, arugula, asparagus, chamomile, etc.

7. I love that I happened to be placed in the region that is famous the world over for Mozzarella di Bufala and that I can buy it at a store in my town where they greet me kindly by name as they place a bag of freshly made cheese in my hand.

8. I love that I have become infatuated with many new wines…. and rediscovered my appreciation for white wines.

9. I love that I can experience several micro-climates in one day from merely looking out the wall of windows in my house….not to mention the breath-taking sunrises and sunsets.

10. I love that I have eaten all kinds of crazy foods just so I wouldn’t offend the chef. My palate has truly been widened.

11. I love that a friend of mine didn’t finish his food and the chef actually sent someone out to our table to see why.

12. I love that each region’s food and wine is so different from the next and rarely cross paths.

13. I love that NO one over-cooks the pasta.

14. I love that Italians really do make the best caffe’ (espresso) – and I don’t even care for coffee all that much.

15. I love that wine is such a part of the Italians lifestyle that the children grow up being able to explain the vineyards and wine making process as if they were born with it just rolling off their tongues.

16. I love the tomatoes of Campania – I am already consoling myself knowing I will not be able to enjoy them on a regular basis.

17. I love that even the highway rest stops have really good Italian sandwiches made with items like prosciutto, mozzarella, tomatoes, basil, etc.

18. I love that I can buy lemons as big as my head from a man selling them out of the back of his truck on the Amalfi Coast.

19. I love that in restaurants sparkling water cost about 1/8 of what it costs in America….and so does some of the wine.

20. I love that there are huge sugar doughnuts here known as Graffa…something so irresistible yet so necessary to avoid.

21. I love that I can get authentic pizza delivered to my door in 10 minutes by a kid on a Vespa for about 10 bucks.

22. And finally, perhaps most importantly, I love that Italians, no matter how rich or poor, really do embrace their motto of living “La Dolce Vita.”

A Sentimental Wine For A Sentimental Night

Last night as I sat down to dinner, I was exhausted. Movers had left after 3 days of packing up my home (I say home because the building is only a house – the home part went away in boxes and crates).

A few hours earlier, I had stopped by my favorite caseficio to pick up a few goodies. Since my time in Italy is getting short, I am filling myself with as much of the local products as possible. Tonight, I shopped for mozzarella di bufala, proscuitto crudo, bresoala, and rustic bread. I added a few ingredients from my nearly bare cupboards to throw together simple and delicious antipasti. I’ll give you the recipe for bresaola salad at the end – it is one of my favorites!

My wine collection shipped back to the states a few weeks ago but my husband had enough foresight to set aside a few special bottles for the end. We have been working hard the past few days and are aware of our limited time left in Italy so decided to open a sentimental bottle for dinner. We chose a 2003 Piedirosso DOC from Cantine del Mare. This bottle was sentimental for several reasons. The vintage, 2003, was the first year Cantine del Mare produced wine. The winery is in our quaint, little town of Monte di Procida. Our dear friend, Pasquale Massa, is one of the owners and was generous enough to give us this bottle to enjoy.

The wine was medium bodied, ruby red and really lovely. The bouquet was quite light. My husband put it well when he said it was like a Pinot Noir with a little tannin. There were aromas of plum, black cherry, raspberries, leather and earth. The tannins were smooth verifying the wine’s age. Upon sipping, I tasted raspberries, strawberries, cherries, a hint of leather and a hint of spice. As I ate, drank and wound down from the week, I was impressed with what a delightful addition this wine was to my candlelit meal – even if it was on a patio table in the middle of my empty living room.

Bresaola Salad

2 servings

6 slices bresaola

1 handful rucola (arugula)

6 shavings of parmigiano reggiano

1/2 lemon

olive oil

sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

On a platter, spread out the handful of rucola. Drizzle with olive oil and the juice of the lemon. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Place bresaola slices on top arranging in a circle, then parmigiano reggiano. Enjoy!by