Mozzarella di Bufala – Deep Red Cellar

Caffe Calabria – Part II

The taunting did not last long. I found myself back at Caffe Calabria Saturday evening trying their pizza. I don’t know if it was because it had been over a year since I sunk my teeth into true Neapolitan pizza or if it was just because I really, really wanted the food to be sort of close to authentic but I truly enjoyed my dinner. I wasn’t necessarily transported back to Naples but I was very satisfied. Caffe Calabria is set up to give the feeling of alfresco dining at a cafe in Italy. We joked that if they were trying to mimic Naples they missed adding the cigarette butts and trash (which would not go over well in San Diego).

We started with a couple antipasti. I was excited to see they had one of my favorites…bresaola (see “A Sentimental Wine For A Sentimental Night” – Mar 26, 2010). I’ve tasted renditions of this in Little Italy but everyone else uses filet mignon carpaccio – Caffe Calabria actually serves authentic cured bresaola.

We also tried the Salumi Misti which was a wonderful cross section of meats with a few bonus items thrown in such as olives, fresh figs and Calabrian peppers.

Of course the star of the show was the pizza (almost crazy I’ve waited this long to mention it!). My husband ordered the “Margherita D.O.C.” (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) adorned with San Marzano tomatoes and mozzarella di bufala. I ordered the “Rubino” with creme fraiche, speck, caramelized onion, gorgonzola, grana padano, and fresh thyme. My husband’s pizza was definitely good and, as the designation states, truly authentic. I can’t say I’ve seen the likes of the “Rubino” in Naples but oh my goodness it was incredibly tasty! This is the pizza I will probably crave!

Besides quality ingredients the wood fire oven lends to the depth of flavor in these “as advertised” pizzas (“finest Neapolitan pizza in San Diego”). I love the divots and blackened air bubbles which created texture and kept my taste buds dancing. We washed everything down with a bottle of Chianti Superiore and when we ran out kept the momentum going with a Chianti Riserva. I hope I will find myself back at Caffe Calabria often….possibly regularly.

Arrivederci Italy

I’m writing this with less than a week left in Italy. It is hard to believe. I came here three years ago thinking the time would seem so long but, as I’m staring at the very end of this tunnel, I realize the time has flown. Now, I find myself reminiscing. Sure, there were some bad times but there were a lot more good times – many of which happen to center around food and wine. I think that may have something to do with the fact that I happen to love both.

So take a moment to relish in some of those experiences with me as I recount what will hopefully linger as great memories for years to come and possibly encourage you to plan a trip to Bella Italia yourself:

1. I’ll start with the obvious….I love that Italians make such good wine!

2. I love that the food of Italy is made up of ingredients that are high in quality and low in quantity.

3. I love that Italians are adamant that certain shaped pasta must be eaten with specific sauces.

4. I love that the biggest wineries down to the smallest wineries in this country usually are experienced with your own personal tour guide….followed by a great tasting.

5. I love that in my little town of Monte di Procida there is Cantine del Mare Winery and La Taverna dei Sapori Ristorante. Both of which have wonderful owners who opened up their doors and hearts to me.

6. I love that what we Americans consider “fru-fru” gourmet produce, and pay high dollar for, grows wild alongside the road in abundance here – plants like fennel, arugula, asparagus, chamomile, etc.

7. I love that I happened to be placed in the region that is famous the world over for Mozzarella di Bufala and that I can buy it at a store in my town where they greet me kindly by name as they place a bag of freshly made cheese in my hand.

8. I love that I have become infatuated with many new wines…. and rediscovered my appreciation for white wines.

9. I love that I can experience several micro-climates in one day from merely looking out the wall of windows in my house….not to mention the breath-taking sunrises and sunsets.

10. I love that I have eaten all kinds of crazy foods just so I wouldn’t offend the chef. My palate has truly been widened.

11. I love that a friend of mine didn’t finish his food and the chef actually sent someone out to our table to see why.

12. I love that each region’s food and wine is so different from the next and rarely cross paths.

13. I love that NO one over-cooks the pasta.

14. I love that Italians really do make the best caffe’ (espresso) – and I don’t even care for coffee all that much.

15. I love that wine is such a part of the Italians lifestyle that the children grow up being able to explain the vineyards and wine making process as if they were born with it just rolling off their tongues.

16. I love the tomatoes of Campania – I am already consoling myself knowing I will not be able to enjoy them on a regular basis.

17. I love that even the highway rest stops have really good Italian sandwiches made with items like prosciutto, mozzarella, tomatoes, basil, etc.

18. I love that I can buy lemons as big as my head from a man selling them out of the back of his truck on the Amalfi Coast.

19. I love that in restaurants sparkling water cost about 1/8 of what it costs in America….and so does some of the wine.

20. I love that there are huge sugar doughnuts here known as Graffa…something so irresistible yet so necessary to avoid.

21. I love that I can get authentic pizza delivered to my door in 10 minutes by a kid on a Vespa for about 10 bucks.

22. And finally, perhaps most importantly, I love that Italians, no matter how rich or poor, really do embrace their motto of living “La Dolce Vita.”

Where the “Bufala” Roam…

Recently, my family and I visited Paestum, Italy, known for it’s ancient Greek ruins. The ruins, with structures similar to the Parthenon in Athens, are fascinating because they are in impeccable condition.

I have to be honest though…I didn’t go to Paestum to gaze upon the ancient rubble. I went to gaze upon a mozzarella farm and to see where the world famous “Mozzarella di Bufala” (mozzarella of buffalo) is produced. After all, the origin of the water buffalo comes from Paestum.

Let me take a quick moment to mention our lovely lodging. We stayed at Il Cannito. An exclusive, intimate complex with contemporary rooms equipped with amenities such as original art pieces, heated floors, and hydro-sonic/hydro-massage tubs (such a treat!). The food is prepared with passion and the wines carefully selected. All of this plus a private and picturesque setting in the hills of Capaccio.

Now, onto the star of the show….mozzarella. The origin of the word mozzarella comes from the Italian word “mozzare” meaning to cut off. Only seven provinces in Italy produce this world famous product and their all located in the South-Central area of the country.

We toured Tenuta Vannulo, founded in 1988 and located on 200 hectares of expansive farmland. The farm is innovative with it’s use of new technology while respecting old time tradition. In 1996, Tenuta Vannulo started organic farming and became certified by the ICEA (the Italian Association for Organic Farming). This farm promotes sustainable agriculture and is the only organic buffalo farm in Italy. Tenuta Vannulo has approximately 600 buffalo of which, 300 are adults. One buffalo cost roughly $4,000 and weighs a little over 1,300 pounds!

Hands down, my favorite part of the tour was visiting these mighty beasts, close relatives to the Indian and North American buffaloes. Although enormous, they seemed rather tranquil and friendly. I think it had something to do with the fact that these fellas are pampered as if vacationing in Sedona. Music is pumped in, massage brushes are available on demand, and plenty of space to roam helps them feel content. While I was there, I noticed one particular buffalo use the massage brush for the best head massage I’ve seen. These guys deserve it though, they get milked three times a day. That may seem like a lot of work to us, but they were lined up at the milking machine as if it were a 5 star restaurant. I think the fact that they get a private feed bucket while in there may have had something to do with it.

At Tenuta Vannulo, the process is fairly quick and simple as is the case at most farms. Milk is collected at 4am daily, curdled then drained to eliminate the whey. The curd is put into a mill to be ground into chunks then set in a mold, immersed in hot water and stirred until it’s rubbery. After this, the cheese-maker kneads the cheese and when it becomes shiny and smooth, pulls a piece off and forms a ball by hand. Once the ball is formed it is put into a cold water brine. The end product is a fresh, porcelain white cheese with a thin rind and delicate flavor. When cut, fresh mozzarella oozes a watery, milky fluid and smells of milk enzymes. If you’re lucky, you can taste it when it’s so fresh, it is still slightly warm and squeaks when you eat it. I have to tell you, after this foodie experience, I am clearly second guessing my upcoming move away from Bella Italia!

*Some information gathered from: www.vannulo.it and www.mozzarelladibufala.org